Rick OwensOf the Spring 2010 RTW, I'm loving Celine, YSL, Marni, Calvin Klein, Dries van Noten, Hussein Chalayan and about half of Vena Cava. None of them without reservations, though. I mean, Mr. Chalayan, retro influences? Are we doing this now? You are saved by those sheer black and white stripes I loved. And Style.com's Nicole Phelps made a very apt point about Francisco Costa's collection for CK being designed for sylphs - too true, I'm afraid, on anyone larger than a size 2 (maybe 4) the dresses would have nothing like the same effect.
The prevailing theme for what I'm liking seems to be a little older, more sophisticated, pretty utilitarian, and generally neutrals (minus Dries' sick patterns - which I will never describe as "tribal" - and Marni's muted colour palette). I wish I was actually the thirty-something I am in my mind, so I could really go to town on that Celine new-minimalist look.
Immersing myself in photos and video from the shows is making me appreciate them all more - even the ones I didn't like. I can't even talk about Margiela (without crying), but there was that one long, nude column dress that I am dreaming about. Alexander Wang really said nothing to me, but I find myself thinking quite a bit about all that caramel-coloured leather, while Christopher Kane, if nothing else, has certainly got me thinking about gingham. And although Ann Demuelemeester didn't really do the collection I was hoping for (I don't know what that was exactly - but I'd have known if I saw it), that skimpy-top with voluminous-trousers combination was well-executed and felt new to me. And the bird-print trousers were lovely. Balmain didn't have that "I want to
be the girl who wears those clothes" feeling that I look for, but I still thought it was a pretty great collection. Kind of like Rick Owens, my eternal love, who put out a fantastic collection that for some reason just didn't really resonate with me. I think it was the futuristic vibe I'm just not feeling at the moment.
I'm on the fence about both Missoni and Proenza Schouler. I think I need another look.