10.06.2009

thinking out loud


Rick Owens


Of the Spring 2010 RTW, I'm loving Celine, YSL, Marni, Calvin Klein, Dries van Noten, Hussein Chalayan and about half of Vena Cava. None of them without reservations, though. I mean, Mr. Chalayan, retro influences? Are we doing this now? You are saved by those sheer black and white stripes I loved. And Style.com's Nicole Phelps made a very apt point about Francisco Costa's collection for CK being designed for sylphs - too true, I'm afraid, on anyone larger than a size 2 (maybe 4) the dresses would have nothing like the same effect.

The prevailing theme for what I'm liking seems to be a little older, more sophisticated, pretty utilitarian, and generally neutrals (minus Dries' sick patterns - which I will never describe as "tribal" - and Marni's muted colour palette). I wish I was actually the thirty-something I am in my mind, so I could really go to town on that Celine new-minimalist look.

Immersing myself in photos and video from the shows is making me appreciate them all more - even the ones I didn't like. I can't even talk about Margiela (without crying), but there was that one long, nude column dress that I am dreaming about. Alexander Wang really said nothing to me, but I find myself thinking quite a bit about all that caramel-coloured leather, while Christopher Kane, if nothing else, has certainly got me thinking about gingham. And although Ann Demuelemeester didn't really do the collection I was hoping for (I don't know what that was exactly - but I'd have known if I saw it), that skimpy-top with voluminous-trousers combination was well-executed and felt new to me. And the bird-print trousers were lovely. Balmain didn't have that "I want to be the girl who wears those clothes" feeling that I look for, but I still thought it was a pretty great collection. Kind of like Rick Owens, my eternal love, who put out a fantastic collection that for some reason just didn't really resonate with me. I think it was the futuristic vibe I'm just not feeling at the moment.

I'm on the fence about both Missoni and Proenza Schouler. I think I need another look.

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